24 March 2024

The other evening I hit a deer. It was just along by Mario Draghi’s gate, where I’d seen deer bounding across the road on other occasions. This one was obscured by an oncoming car as I made my way home: luckily, it was moving fast and by the time I made contact with it, it was almost on the verge.

I clipped its haunch and swerved it round a bit, and it gave me a momentary wide-eyed-shock  look. I suspect I was looking pretty taken aback too. But my emergency braking went smoothly and the afflicted animal hauled itself up on to the verge and trotted away. No damage, no fuss. I bet it had a pretty sore rear end for a few days.

Since then I’ve been wondering: what exactly was it that I hit? We have lots of caprioli (Capreolus capreolus – Roe deer) bobbling round in our field, and zipping across our lane as if they were lying in wait there, daring each other to run in front of passing vehicles. But our speed on our bumpy track tends to be slow, so I never feel there’s much danger of contact.

When they’re close enough, and they move about, it’s not difficult to identify caprioli, with their perky white bottoms. They do stand out brightly.

We also, though, have cervi (Cervus elaphus – Red deer), or so I’m told. These are recognisable by virtue of being enormous, and having – in the male of the species – bloody big horns. L maintains he once spotted a stag in full fag down in our field, and that’s perfectly possible. I can’t say that I’ve ever seen one.

It’s tempting of course to think that what I hit was a noble cervo: it certainly looked pretty huge at the time of impact. But I rather suspect it was a humble capriolo which isn’t quite so impressive. Still, it’s probably solid enough to make a large dent in your bonnet in the event of a full-on hit.


It’s odd how animals you have to face up to against your will tend to look so immense. We often, for example, have field mice in our chicken house. (No chickens… that’s just what the outbuilding is called.) They’re kind of annoying in that they nibble on anything made of plastic, including the handlebar covers on my bike, various bits of the lawnmower, wellies and big bottles of very expensive organic products to spray on plants. They have to keep gnawing, apparently, because their incisors never stop growing and need to be constantly ground down, which makes anything you happen to have lying about fair game for them. As they are (mainly) quiet and retiring, and scurry away whenever humans are about, I can (mainly) resign myself to this, bravely telling myself that they too have a right to live in this rural idyll. Grrrrr

Rats, on the other hand, are a different kettle of fish. We get them very rarely, thank goodness. But the one which stared up at me a couple of weeks ago as I lifted the cover off the compost bin it was ransacking, and looked down at me menacingly from the rafters of the chicken house, was the size of a small cow. It was. I swear. Well, you know… it was far bigger than it should have been.

So I decided it had to go. I don’t like killing animals (except ants). But… there are red lines. This creature had not just nibbled genteely at the plastic tops of my organic product bottles: it had chomped right through the bottle itself, decorating the chicken house floor with great puddles of exorbitant liquid.

I went to the hardware shop to purchase the most lethal thing they had. The lady in there waved ‘humane traps’ at me, but I told her my humanity had withered at the sight of a cow-sized rat. I wanted instant death.

Her husband produced a packet of rodent bait, of the one-bite-and-you’re-dead variety. Perfect. It took a while to get out of the store. He had to tell me his rodent tale. Because everybody has one. His was a humble mouse, but a mouse which got into his car, made its way into the glove compartment and consumed all his car documents. By chance he was stopped at a police road block soon after. Instead of docs all he could produce was some shredded paper with large dollops of mouse droppings. So he was fined for having no documents and had to pay a huge whack for fast-tracking the new papers. He was happy – nay, eager – to help me with my carnage.

The instructions said to leave one tablet somewhere the rodent could access it easily. I left five. Next morning, they had all gone. So that evening, just to be safe, I put down five more. Next morning they were gone. Part of me was worried that these tablets were turning my beast into super-rat: that I’d open the chicken house door and meet it eye to eye. The other part thought: just die, will you?

I forgot to distribute more destruction that evening. No matter. Ratty went ahead and helped himself: the following morning there was no sign of the carefully sealed plastic bag I had left on a top shelf. Surely, surely, now it must be dead.

It was two or three days later, as I was removing the covers from the citruses which had over-wintered in the chicken house, that I noticed a small trembling ball of fur creeping vertically up the crumbling wall at the back of the building. Brick by sandy brick, it was hauling itself straight up: one false paw step and it would crash right down again. Here was my much-reduced rat, shrunken and clearly on its way out.

The next day L found the corpse somewhere in the chicken house. I didn’t want to know where. With 15 times the recommended dose of poison inside it, the creature had finally expired. Was I sorry? Did I feel guilty? Of course I didn’t. It was a rat.


A brief aside about things we’re addicted to without knowing. No, not Wordle or doom-scrolling: I know only too well that they have me in their clutches. In this case: sugar.

I don’t really do diets. But I do do experiments. As I thought I was eating too much chocolate (it’s a busy time of year for a garden designer: I needed energy) I decided to take action. I don’t have the self-discipline for a softly softly approach. I’m an all-or-nothing person. So I gave up sugar.

If you’re doing this properly you give up anything with any variation on sugar, including fruit. But life is hardly worth living without fruit. So I drew my line at anything with added processed sugar in it. Fine.

Effect? Well, I was thinking it was all rather a damp squib. It really didn’t seem to make the blindest bit of difference. No weight lost (even now, after a couple of months, which is rather odd). All in all I felt more or less the same. Oh, except for some headaches but those, I thought, were incidental. My total sugar ban was so much an integral part of my life by the time I started feeling that something was trying to break out of the back of my head with an axe that I failed to put the two together. But oh, they went together. I had booked an appointment with my doctor before the penny dropped. I googled. Yes, debilitating headaches from sugar cold turkey is a thing.

And so I know that when they say that processed foods are packed with sugar (and salt) to get people hooked, it’s not just a turn of phrase. There’s real dependence there.


Spring seems to be here. Of course plenty of recent experience tells us that it may not be here definitively: my terror of a Big Freeze is holding me back on various plantings in various gardens. You just never know when the all clear will be any more.

What can be safely done however, I’m doing.

On the March new moon I got some seeds into pots: my summer tomatoes and beans and courgettes and peppers are already pushing through and unfurling in my falling-to-pieces little greenhouse out there.

I cheated and bought pea plants. They’re in the ground, refusing as always to climb the handy sticks I’ve provided for them, many of which are flowering picturesquely and probably putting down roots: they’re the clippings from some rushed and inadequate fruit tree pruning that I did last weekend. The first lot of green beans are in the ground too – purchased, I admit, from the man with the plant van in our Saturday market.

We’ve eaten our first asparagus, and had our first comfortable lunch outside. (I say comfortable because there were cold-but-bright days in winter where we shivered over a plate outside because it just felt so glorious to be in the sun.) We’ve broken out the sunscreen for prolonged bouts in the outside world.

I’ve found a solution for my despair over the state of the garden, in the shape of a lovely lady who used to help me in the house but went on to better things. Now she has time on her hands so she’s agreed to help with weeding and tidying and generally getting things how I never have time to make them.

I told her I really needed a woman to help me because I was sick to death of soi-disants ‘gardeners’ (male of course) who couldn’t envisage being in the garden without a strimmer or some other noisy powertool in their hands. I wanted someone with patience and sense. She laughed and prevaricated, but finally turned up.

I don’t know whether she came out of compassion, or because she liked the idea of weeding for me, or whether she suddenly realised that my utter disillusion with male gardeners was serious. A relation, she told me, had brought her back a collection of seeds for salad greens from Romania. They were special: delicious and spicy, including leaves that you don’t find in Italy. They were just coming up, almost ready to eat. And what did her husband do? He hadn’t realised she’d seeded them where she’d seeded them. So he went at the unruly row with his strimmer and removed the lot. At that point she realised that my need was real.

27 October 2023

Between market stalls on Saturday, two men are talking. They look like your typical Umbrian peasanty-farmery-type old blokes but in this neck of the woods they could just as easily be two university professors or merchant bankers in their country retirement. It can be hard to tell. Anyway, they’re talking about their vegetable gardens.

It’s bug season. As usual, my veggies are being gnawed by stinky shield bugs and wiggly green caterpillars and aphids and a host of beasts attracted to the tender little winter veg which I’m planting out as the summer ones die off.

“Do you have insetti?” one man asks the other.
“Ooooooh, so many,” says the other.
“What are you doing about them? There are medicine you know,” says the first.

Two things strike me about this statement. Firstly: of course he must know, even if these two are retired professionals rather than the locals they seem. No one doesn’t know that pesticides exist. The second is that wonderful use of “medicine” rather than “pesticidi” which actually places these two firmly in the category of elderly locals, who are the only people I’ve ever heard using this term. It’s an odd use of the word which, as in English, refers to stuff used to cure humans and animals, not for wholesale extermination of pesky bugs. Are they considering this from the plants’ point of view? Are they imagining curing their suffering vegetables? Or do they have a very bleak view of the benefits of medicine: as likely to kill as to cure?

In any case, at least one of these elderly gentlemen has no intention at all of taking the risk of going down the medicinal route.

Medicine? You must be joking! I just go out every morning and squash them,” he says. A messy business, not for the squeamish, but one that I find myself resorting to as well.

Especially as, quite inexplicably, one of the main weapons in my anti-insect arsenal – pyrethrum – seems to have been withdrawn. Of all the useful organic products, this extract of chrysanthemum is/was my favourite. Yes, it required repeated applications, but in the end it generally did the job. It doesn’t, as far as I can tell, kill friendly bugs or do much at all to anything which doesn’t present a threat… with the possible exception of bees who are, though, probably repulsed by it so it doesn’t do too much harm. So why has it been lined up with glyphosate and other systemic nasties? Why has it been put on the black list? I’ve tried a patented mix of four oils (can’t remember which precisely) which seemed to make the beasts even bigger. I’ve tried neem oil which helps a little with the insects – and probably does the plants’ health good – but which really doesn’t match up to pyrethrum at all. And, when I find yet another cavolo nero leaf turned to lace and I’m feeling particularly vindictive, I’ve dedicated half an hour to squashing the little buggers between my fingers. But I really would like my pyrethrum back. It’s all very unfair.

Also in the market: visiting American cousins of a friend of mine. “Wow,” commented one as she entered the covered market (aka deconsecrated church of Sant’Anna degli Scolopi, with town water tank in the lantern above our heads), “you can smell the vegetables. In American markets you can’t smell anything at all.” And she’s right.


I was perusing this article in The Guardian and the image of the population-by-age graph no longer being a bottom-heavy pyramid (lots of young people, tapering to a thin point of palsied eld) but a fat urn (hardly any kids, middle-age bulge) intrigued me. What does Città della Pieve look like?

As these data show, the middle-age bulge is most definitely there but there’s still a mediumly healthy base of young people, not entirely dwindling. Phew.

How long can this last though? Figures for 2021 are not encouraging: 42 births is the second-lowest figure in the last ten years. Then again, 105 deaths is on the higher side. The population is shrinking, certainly, but very slightly in favour of youth.

For anyone worried that CdP is being overrun by foreigners (for which read: people of colour and of different religions) the figures really don’t seem to give them much support. In 2012, of the 165 who signed up as residents shifting from other Italian locations, some may well have been foreigners shifting from other regions but the bulk will have been Italians. Then again, many of the 25 who moved here from abroad were probably predictably Caucasian with a hefty share of Anglo-Saxons. What’s more the number of non-Italians resident here is, oddly, falling, though this is probably because many of them have acquired Italian citizenship along the way… like us, for example.

Whilst on the topic of fascinating statistics (at least, I find them fascinating) I heard a couple on the radio the other day which I haven’t stood up with my own research, but this is what an expert on betting was telling the listeners. The amount spent on food each year by Italians is just slightly more than the Italian state spends on healthcare but – and this is the interesting/scary bit – only very slightly more than Italians spend on betting. And that’s only the legal kind of betting, obviously: there’s probably lots more going on in dark corners. How can people spend (almost) as much on taking a punt as they do on feeding their families? I find that astonishing. Granted, that includes the national lottery kind of things where a percentage of the takings are ploughed back into arts and culture and what have you. But still: distressing.


A viper? In late October?

So the leaves are very gingerly turning autumnal colours finally, though mostly large trees and all in the wrong order. In fact, so much is happening in the wrong order. My persimmons are ripening on the trees already, rather than clinging on hard until well after the leaves have turned fiery colours and turned to flaming mulch on the carpark gravel. The mulberries, which are generally the first to take on their autumn hue – a clear lemony yellow – are still almost entirely green.

Across on the hill opposite, there’s not much to look forward to, sadly. It was so severely coppiced over the course of the year that it’s just a few straggly standards now. The patch slightly to the right – cut back last year – is thick and leafy and ready to turn though, which puts the patchy stuff in front of us into perspective: it will be back, and soon.

In the orto, as I said, I’m busy with the cambio di stagione: picking the last of my tomatoes and green beans and putting in brassica seedlings. Yes: I keep buying seedlings. I just can’t find time to grow from seeds at the moment so I’ve resorted to the trays of ready-to-plant things sold by the man at our Saturday market. He swears he hates systemic growing aids: I have my doubts. At least they become less polluted during their months in my garden.

We’ve already eaten our first huge cabbage and some young leaves of cavolo nero – all very delicious but more sad sad signs of the winter that’s on its way.


Pieve Suites continues quiet, and the town is very low-season-ish. Or delightfully tranquil, depending on your point of view. My feeling that our area was quieter than usual this summer (smaller structures such as mine had a truly underwhelming season) is born out by the low-ish share of the Umbrian tourist trade it enjoyed in the first seven months of 2023. Look at Trasimeno: such a mediocre performance for such a magnificent area.

Down here on the Amalfi Coast where we’re catching some end-of-season ozone, it’s still incredibly packed. Driving along Positano’s winding wending climbing and plunging main street to reach our hotel way down the far end took forever: there are tourists in shorts with bare midriffs and sandals, and busloads of Koreans coming for their two-hour peek before being bussed off to the next Instagrammable sight. Our hotel, which generally begins slowing down through October, is almost full, with guests even arriving tomorrow to catch the final night before closing day on Sunday.

Who is flocking to the place? Not so many of the elegant, cultured, monied tourists of yesteryear – or even from the pre-Covid days – we’re told. Positano has always been an icon – it’s just that now it’s an icon of a different kind. Social media has utterly transformed the landscape, and the people who scuttle through it. It’s an Instagam must-do. Punters are prepared to slum it for their whole holiday in order to afford one night in one of Positano’s glam hotels, to take the right photos and enjoy the frisson of knowing that they might, possibly, sit across the bar from someone famous.

For me, a trip to the Amalfi Coast is just another chance to change my colour register from green to blue: so necessary from time to time to realign my relationship with nature.